Discovering Verdejo: Spain’s Hidden White Wine Gem
Introduction
From the sunny vineyards of Spain comes a grape that has quietly been enchanting wine enthusiasts world over – Verdejo (“Vurr-day-ho”). Through this piece I aim to introduce you to this delightful grape that I first encountered while on road trip with my father from Madrid to Castille y León back in April 2019. At the time, having not yet graduated the WSET Level 3, I was just beginning my journey with wine, and the trip to wineries across Ribera del Duero, Rueda, and Cigales opened my eyes to the unique characteristics of some of Spain’s native grapes.
The History and Origin of Verdejo Wine
Long ago, in the medieval era, a group of Moorish traders journeyed from North Africa to Spain, carrying with them precious cargo – the Verdejo grape. The legend says they planted the grape in the fertile soils of Rueda, where it thrived and became a beloved local treasure.
As the years passed, the Verdejo grape faced many challenges, including the devastating phylloxera plague in the late 19th century. The vineyards were nearly wiped out, but a dedicated winegrower named Ángel Rodríguez Vidal refused to let this heritage die. He painstakingly preserved the last Verdejo vines, replanting and nurturing them back to life.
This grape, with its storied past, has become one of my personal favourites for its unique flavour and mouthfeel. Today, Verdejo stands as a testament to resilience and dedication, producing wines that continue to captivate wine lovers around the world. This grape’s journey from North Africa to the heart of Spain is a story of survival, revival, and the enduring passion of those who believe in its potential.
Fun fact: The name Verdejo comes from the Spanish word “verde,” meaning green, reflecting the grape’s vibrant, green berries.
The Rueda Region
Map of Rueda Region, Spain
My visit to Rueda’s vineyards was unforgettable. The scenic drive unfolded idyllic beauty – rolling hills dotted with vines, all bathed in the cool, refreshing air. A touch of rain couldn’t dampen the warmth of the people. Nestled in Castilla y León, Rueda enjoys a continental climate. Hot summers and cold winters combine with diverse soils – alluvial rocks, gravel, sand, and clay – at high altitudes (700-900 meters) to create the perfect environment for Verdejo grapes to flourish.
Vineyards in Rueda on gently rolling hills and flatlands, planted wide enough to allow for mechanized night-time harvests
The high diurnal range the difference between day and night temperatures – ensures that the grapes develop ripe fruit flavours without losing their crispness.
Earning its Denominación de Origen (DO) status in 1980, Rueda has become Castilla y León’s undisputed champion of white wines. Here, a label of “Rueda Verdejo” guarantees at least 85% Verdejo grapes, with many opting for 100% purity. This dedication to quality is evident in the international acclaim Rueda wines receive, and my visit underscored the meticulous care and tradition poured into every bottle.
Characteristics of Verdejo Wine
It takes a lot for a white grape to gain favour in Spain, yet Verdejo has done so with its subtle-yet-stunning wines with flavours of lime, grapefruit, fennel, and citrus blossom. It’s often likened to Sauvignon Blanc but really, it deserves its own category. Unlike most whites, Verdejo continues to improve over several years of bottle-aging, where it gains a rich texture and flavours of toasted Marcona almonds, supported by sparkling acidity. The crisp, bitter flavours of freshly cut grass and fennel come in on the finish and add a complexity to the wine that would make a connoisseur’s eyes light up.
The grapes themselves are known for their delicate nature. With thin skins prone to oxidation, careful handling is required during viniculture to preserve the vibrant and fresh qualities of the wine.
Fun fact: Verdejo grapes are usually harvested only at night, to prevent the browning that 30-degree daytime harvest will almost certainly guarantee.
One unique aspect of Verdejo is its ability to improve with bottle aging, developing complexity while maintaining freshness. Unlike most white wines which are best enjoyed young, this makes it suitable for both immediate enjoyment and long-term cellaring.
Fun fact: Verdejo can be crafted into various styles, from fresh, unoaked versions to rich, oaked, and even fortified wines.
A Celebration of Verdejo: World Verdejo Day
Every second Friday of June, the world celebrates Verdejo! Join fellow wine lovers in tastings, explore delicious food pairings, and share your experiences using #WorldVerdejoDay. Whether you host a tasting at home or participate in virtual events, it’s a fantastic opportunity to delve into the diverse and captivating world of Verdejo wines. In Spain, Verdejo is enjoyed as a refreshing aperitif or paired with tapas, seafood, and light salads. Its crisp acidity and vibrant flavours also make it perfect for India’s warm climate, with enough character to stand up to and even enrich our cuisine.
Protos Verdejo: A Modern Classic
Protos Verdejo exemplifies the quality achievable through meticulous winemaking. Night harvesting and cold maceration techniques preserve freshness, while aging on lees for three months enhances its flavour and structure. As the Protos winemaking team explains, “Lees contact gives Verdejo a longer life in the bottle and a robust structure.”
What sets Protos apart is their use of indigenous yeasts and grapes with lower yields but higher fruit concentration. “Our Verdejo has more body and structure. We consciously prefer lower yields, which results in better grapes. Lees aging gives the wine longevity in the bottle,” says Luisa de Paz from Protos.
This results in a wine with a bright straw colour with green hints, offering an enticing bouquet of tropical fruits and citrus alongside subtle herbal notes. The palate is balanced and crisp, with a long, refreshing finish that echoes the grape’s characteristic touch of bitterness.
Its crisp acidity and lively flavours make it a versatile pairing partner. I’ve enjoyed it with tuna salads, sushi, sautéed veggies, or you could go full Spanish Food Night with a seafood paella.
Despite critical acclaim from Wine Spectator and Decanter, Protos Verdejo remains accessible, offering excellent quality at a friendly price point. This makes it a great choice for both casual drinkers and connoisseurs seeking a top-notch white wine without breaking the bank.
Verdejo’s unique characteristics and aging potential make it a standout choice for white wine enthusiasts looking for something beyond the usual offerings. Whether enjoyed young for its vibrant freshness or aged for its rich, complex profile, Verdejo is a versatile and delightful wine that deserves a place in any wine lover’s collection – it’s definitely got a place in ours.
